Winter never looked so good – Farrel Hirsch’s seasonal menu at Greenhouse Restaurant is a sensory journey
Chef Farrel Hirsch took over at Greenhouse Restaurant in 2018, after various stints at high-profile premium destinations – from tenures as sous chef at The Test Kitchen, to his first head-chef gig at Four Seasons The Westcliff in Johannesburg, as well as time spent as executive chef on North Island in the Seychelles. He returns to Greenhouse for the second time (his first few years here were spent as sous chef), to demonstrate his deepened experience as well as to carry on the legacy of the much-lauded restaurant.
With a philosophy that advocates for food that tells stories and preserves local culture and history, while celebrating seasonal ingredients and fresh produce, Greenhouse Restaurant at the Cellars-Hohenort is a consistently accoladed dining destination, much loved and awarded by the food critic community.
With Hirsch behind the pass, the spirit of the restaurant is in good hands and he continues to express its core ethos with two new menus. The new Journey and Discovery menus, available til August, are a celebration of the season’s flavours, as ever executed with innovation and inventiveness.
The nine-course tasting Journey comprises a duet of conceptual canapes, a trio of intriguing starters, a single main followed by a traditional palate cleanser, and two desserts. Both vegetarian and vegan options are available. You can elect to pair either tasting menu with specially selected wines. Almost every course has a consciously South African element that pays homage to its culinary context. Guests can expect gourmet mielie pap with Springbok or grated boerenkaas from a local cheesery in the delicate cheese-and-tomato “sandwich” canape. The dark chocolate truffles are crafted from Klippies & Coke while sour fig accompanies the Cape octopus.
“With our winter experience, the aim is to continue the Greenhouse’s sterling reputation for sourcing unusual, meaningful ingredients and lending them an extraordinary treatment,” says Hirsch.
Dinner is served Tuesday to Saturday from 18h00 to 21h00. The full Journey is R1 300 per person, with Greenhouse wine pairing at an additional R700 per person. The reduced Discovery menu is R900 per person, with wine pairing at additional R500 per person.